Raspberries are our most popular
soft fruit. As with all our fruit, we span the seasons with varieties
chosen for their flavour and not their shelf life. Fruits are tree ripened
to perfection, then picked and sold fresh each day.
The
thrushes and blackbirds swipe the first flush of Glen Moy and All Gold,
until the quantity of fruit outstrips the local bird population’s
appetite. It was this mix of pink and yellow summer raspberries that
won us “Best Organic Raspberries” at the Organic Food Awards.
We then work through, amongst others
Glen Ample, the apricot coloured Valentino and finally on to the smaller,
deeper red Autumn Bliss – when raspberries taste like they really,
really ought to.
Hybrid berries cover a multitude
of sins, including giant blackberries which have been developed for
machined harvesting in July. Quite the opposite are the delicious Boysenberries,
which in so many respects are identical to Mulberries, and just as hard
to harvest a saleable crop!
Buckingham Tayberries and Loganberries
are our mainstays of these berries, which provide for a more sophisticated
palate than the giant summer blackberries.
Our gooseberries span the entire
gooseberry spectrum, starting at Whitsun with the culinary variety Invicta,
where the little green bullets require indulgent quantities of sugar
and cream to be enjoyed.
The
first of the dessert varieties are the small and slightly hairy Early
Sulphur and Golden Drop, followed by the Finnish Hinnonmakis Red and
Yellow. Rokula and Martlett show up deeper red, less hairs and more
syrup Basically, as the season progresses, so improves the quality of
the gooseberries, culminating the in the Queen of all the gooseberries,
the plum sized Leveller, with qualities to match the finest ripe peach.
For the plums as with
say the gooseberries, the yield of each variety is directly and inversely
proportional to the value of each fruit. For example the Damson Merryweather
yields so fantastically well that we can hardly give them away, yet
Excalibur produces just a few giant plums of nectarine proportions and
qualities.
Needless to say, not even the birds
are really interested in the Damsons, yet we (birds, deer, badgers and
even scrumpers) are all elbowing each other out of the way to get to
the precious few Excalibur.
Other varieties include Victoria,
Opal, Czar, Dennison’s Superb, and Greengage.
Blackcurrants are reputed to be
the superstars of all the super foods, despite the fact that 95% of
the UK crop is grown (and machine harvested) for Ribena.
Our early variety Ben Hope will
be ready by the end of June, and if you put your nose to the berries
you can already smell the promise of so much goodness!
Throughout
July we will also harvest the only truly improved blackcurrant, which
has been crossed (in South Africa) with a gooseberry, the Jostaberry.
Subsequent varieties are Ben Tirran
and, well into the autumn, the smaller but more intensely flavoured
Ben Connan.
Red currants, white currants and
pink currants, collectively known as the vine currants, have a dramatic
visual impact – cascades of crimson pearls and all that, but they
need more thought as to how to deal with them in the kitchen, and this
limits their demand enormously.
In fact the pink currants (varieties
Pink Champagne and Holland Rose) are delicious eaten “raw”,
but unfortunately the birds know this too and an intact necklace of
pink currants is a rare thing.
Figs are the best example we have
for the superiority of tree ripened fruit, harvested au point. Against
the south facing wall these trees produce a reliable crop of 30-50 fruits
per tree, each one picked as it takes on the appearance of a plump raindrop
about to fall from a twig, then carried to the shop like precious cargo.
White Marseille start by mid July,
then the more dense fleshed Brown Turkey and the delicate Rouge de Bordeaux.
Given an Indian Summer we get a second crop in October, or the unripe
crop can be made into green fig chutney.
Other
Mediterranean fruit we grow with mixed degrees of success are peaches,
nectarine and apricots. Given a south facing wall and no late frost
these will all crop reliably.
We have 14 varieties of apple, the
most popular top fruit. Tree ripened top fruit bears little resemblance
to the kind of fruit available in the supermarket; it has its full compliment
of natural sugars, goodness and flavour.
These trees are all grown on M9
semi-dwarf rooting stock, and despite the unimpressive size of the trees,
they are fully mature and produce 50-80 fruits each per year.
We get a less reliable crop of pears.
Really they prefer damp marshy ground, so our drought prone sand is
not ideal.
Nevertheless, last year these trees produced a bumper crop, and still
seem a little hungover as a result.
Varieties include Beth, Doyenne
de Comice, and Williams Bon Chretieu. One
of life’s great treats, at the end of the summer as the nights
cool and the colours start to turn, is of feasting upon a fully tree
ripened pear, the syrupy juice running off your chin!